What Is Retinol? The Full Lowdown On The Anti Ageing Product

So I am sure you have heard, seen or even discussed retinoid? It seems to be the most talked about skincare product at the moment! And with good reason, the wonder product is amazing for it’s anti ageing abilities but of course it does come with some nasty side effects if it’s not used correctly. Keep on reading to find out what is retinol, the full lowdown on the anti ageing product.

What is retinol?

Retinol is a form of Vitamin A that belongs to a group of derivatives known as retinoids. Retinoids are used for anti ageing purposes and are found in many skincare products.

What retinoids do is they stimulate the metabolism of skin cells and encourage collagen production. Using a well-formulated and stable retinoid product will visibly reduce the appearance of sun damage, brown spots, lines, wrinkles and large pores.

Its magic ability is that it can resurface the skin’s texture for a smoother, more even complexion. Sounds amazing right?! 😍

Now some retinoids you can buy over the counter, these being low strength retinols. Other retinoids though, like tretinoin which is a retin-a need to be prescribed by a doctor.

They are completely safe to use on your skin although if you rush into things and don’t use them properly you can run into unwanted side effects.

Whats the difference between retinol, retin-a and retinoid?

Retinols and retin-as are both types of retinoids, which is a class of medication. Both of them can help by promoting faster skin cell turnover and both are proven to reverse signs of ageing.

But a retinol, which is the over the counter option isn’t as strong. A retin-a being the prescription product is more potent and is more effective at diminishing fine lines and wrinkles and acne.

What are the benefits of using a retinol?

A retinol actually has multiple uses including its ability to combat acne and target areas with pigmentation. It also reduces the signs of ageing and any sun damage to the skin.

How it helps with ageing is, of course as you age your skin cell turnover rate and collagen production slows down. A retinol product when applied can help bring your skin cells and function back to a more youthful state.

It does this by helping to speed up the cell turnover rate to keep pores unclogged which also helps to reduce breakouts. It also helps to improve texture, fine lines and wrinkles and brighten the skin.

Plus it increases your collagen production which provides you with those amazing anti ageing benefits. What is collagen? It is a substance that is needed to boost your skins hydration and elasticity levels.

It can also be super helpful if you suffer with acne or have acne prone skin. If you are able to get a prescription grade retin-a from a dermatologist is can be really beneficial in reducing any whiteheads, blackheads or closed comedones.

What are the side effects?

If you overuse a retinoid it can cause drying and irritation of the skin. I can’t tell you how many times I have over done it with a retinoid so anybody with sensitive skin be careful!

If you use too high a strength to begin with or apply it too frequently it can be an absolute disaster and cause itchiness, peeling skin and scaly patches. Believe me, they are not cute!

It can also make you more sensitive to sunlight leading to quicker and easier sunburn. So make sure to only apply it at night and wear SPF everyday!

If you do suffer with rosacea or eczema it can cause it to flare up but if you gradually introduce it you may still be able to use it. I get quite bad eczema around my eyes and found that sometimes if I over did it, it would flare up. Although when I introduced it slowly I was able to skip the irritation and now I can my skin can tolerate it every night.

You may not experience any side effects at all, some people don’t! You may only experience some slight drying of the skin. Whatever you experience it will very likely disappear after a few weeks of use, so it’s important to give your skin time to adjust.

how to use it?

When it comes to using retinol, slow and steady definitely wins the race with this product! Take it from me you want to avoid all drying and peeling at all costs.

I would recommend starting off with a low grade retinol, not a retin-a you can work your way up to this overtime. Start by applying it 1–2 times per week and see how your skin reacts. If you are finding that your skin is tolerating it well you can add one extra night each week.

If you notice any irritation or redness, I would scale back completely and give it a miss for a few nights until your skin has fully recovered and then you can start incorporating it again.

Retinoid is one of those products where there are no set, specific instructions it is all completely based on how your own skin tolerates the product and what works for you.

When to use it?

In regards to when you should be using it, use it only in the evenings after you have double cleansed your skin. Make sure to pat your skin completely dry and only apply a PEA SIZE amount, yes nothing bigger than this.

You only need a little bit of the product to cover your face. I would also recommend when starting off with the product to be cautious of the eye area, around your nose and mouth. These areas can get irritated and dry easily.

Because retinols can be drying make sure to skip any other acids for that night and apply effective hydrating products. I only use a niacinamide serum, hyaluronic acid serum, moisturiser and face oil after applying my retinoid.

You want to make sure you are protecting your skins moisture barrier. So skip any vitamin c serums for the morning and only apply chemical exfoliants on alternate nights.

Also make sure to only be using gentle cleansers, like the Cerave Hydrating Cleanser. You don’t want to dry out your skin further with harsh face washes that strip the skin.

If you are using any additional acne products, check with your derm first and make sure to always, always apply SPF during the day.

What products I recommend?

It’s best to start with a low grade retinol product and work your way up to a retin-a. I would suggest starting with a low concentration of 0.2% or 2% for Granactive.

Initially I used The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion as my first retinoid product. I absolutely loved it, didn’t experience any irritation and noticed a big change in my skin after a few months.

I then moved up to Differin Gel, which is a retin-a, I did experience some irritation and redness with this product and really had to work my way up to using it every night over time. Although the results I see now have been well worth the struggle at the start.

I do recommend The Ordinary retinols for beginners as an introduction to retinoids. They are a great gateway product into retin-as and an inexpensive option. I would suggest starting with the lowest percentage and working your way up.

The Ordinary Retinoids/Retinols:

• 2% Emulsion Granactive Retinoid (Moderate Strength, No Irritation)
• 2% in Squalane Granactive Retinoid (Moderate Strength, No Irritation)
• 5% in Squalane Granactive Retinoid (High Strength, No to Low Irritation)
• 0.2% Retinol in Squalane (Low Strength, Moderate Irritation)
• 0.5% Retinol in Squalane (Moderate Strength, High Irritation)
• 1% Retinol in Squalane (High Strength, Very High Irritation)

Also be sure to check out Caroline Hirons video on the retinoids here.

Some other retinol, OTC products I recommend:

• RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Anti-Aging Retinol Night Cream
• Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream (vegan option)

Once you find your skin has adjusted and tolerates retinols well you can move up to a retin-a. The most common ones are Differin and Tretinoin. They both require a prescription in most countries, although I did not find any issues in getting a prescription for Differin.

So just check in with your derm or doctor to discuss. The only exception is America. In the US you are able to get Differin, over the counter.

When will you see results?

You will not see results over night with retinoid, or any product for that fact. Especially because when you first start off you are incorporating it slowly. So you may wonder is it actually working? The answer being yes.

Your skin will generally take about 3–4 weeks to adapt to the product when using it consistently. With a retin-a product you will see visible results in 2–3 months. Depending on the potency, OTC retinols can take up to 6 months to see results.

Although this doesn’t mean you won’t see any benefits when you start using it. In the short term, you will notice your skin will be exfoliated of any dead skin cells and you will have less acne due to your pores being unclogged.

For anything related to reducing wrinkles you won’t see a significant difference until about 3 months but then it will only increase from there. Over time, it will help to boost collagen production and thicken the deep layer of skin when wrinkles begin to form.

So long term, it really is worth staying consistent as it will be worth the results. With continuous use after 6 months you will start to benefit from new collagen and elastin production. You will also see a noticeable reduction of fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots.

So hang in there! The wait is definitely worth it. Just takes some time and a little consistency.

Bottom line

I love retinoid, it is one of my favourite skincare products if not my favourite. It has worked miracles for my skin over the past 2 years in terms of appearance, wrinkles, pigmentation, acne and texture.

It definitely can be one of the most difficult products to start off with but once you get through the first few weeks you will truly see a change in your skin.

Whether you have acne, pigmentation or ageing issues, retinol can work wonders for you. I know, OTC retinoids can take a little longer to see the effects but they are definitely a great way to get into the retinoid game.

Once your skin adjusts, you can start using a retin-a for the best results. Trust me, it’s worth the wait 🤍